WHICH COAT TO OWN?

The world of coats is founded on three fundamental pillars, all three solid colors, or some small melange or herringbone.

The first pillar is midnight blue, perhaps double-breasted with classic peaked lapels, buttons on the sleeves and a central back vent. In short, the classic Chesterfield model. This is the only one that should never be missing and is the first to be made by the tailor or always the first to be purchased. Perfect for the evening as well as for all business or ceremonial occasions. Here the noblest fabrics are obviously Cashmere or, even better, Vicuna.

The second pillar is the grey coat, perhaps a mélange like the one in the photo; if it is dark grey it can replace blue on many occasions, but not all! And if it’s dark grey, I always recommend the Chesterfield model, perhaps with hand guards and velvet collar. Or even with the back of the collar in astrakhan. A valid alternative, if it’s herringbone like the one in the photo, could be a single-breasted one with raglan sleeves. Certainly comfortable but equally classic and elegant

And finally, the third pillar: the camel or camel-coloured coat. Here the perfect model can only be the Polo Coat, double-breasted, with patch pockets and a pleat and martingale at the back. This is my favourite model. For me, it’s better if it’s not too light, like the one in the photo. But this is just my personal taste. I used to love it lighter, but now, as I get older, I prefer it darker because I find it more elegant. Certainly this model is less formal and more casual; in fact it was created in the early 1900s for English polo players. I love to wear it with pinstripe and Prince of Wales in different colours but also with sports jackets and flannel or velvet trousers.