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GIANNI MEETS “L’UOMO ELEGANTE”, A MANUAL ON ELEGANCE TO OWN!

 

L’Uomo Elegante is a book written by an Italian gentleman, also known as Tommaso di Benedetto, a friend of Passaggio Cravatte and Gianni.

 

 

The text is perfectly consistent with the author. A perfect symbiosis, I dare say!
The reason? Mr. Di Benedetto is elegance; and he lives for elegance in a natural way.
His elegance is often secret, very personal, far from the spotlight; but extremely learned. A true passion for him!

 

 

And his book is a true practical, down-to-earth handbook; a sort of binary that will never derail you no matter where, at whatever time or event you find yourself!

And even though it’s written in Italian, don’t worry because it contains a series of drawings and images that, by looking at them carefully, can help you understand what classic elegance is, from which you can perhaps take inspiration to improve your own.

 

So why do I recommend that you buy it?

1) It reveals you tricks of classic elegance

2) It contains beautiful images from which you can take inspiration to improve your elegance

3) It is a beautiful object in an important format to keep in your library forever.

Where to buy it?
The fastest way to buy it is on Amazon, here is the link:

SHOP HERE THE BOOK

 

 

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Does my jacket have any defects?

Over the years, and many mistakes, I realized that I wasn’t always wearing perfect jackets. But being often in different tailor’s shops perhaps I have understood and learned something. Certainly these photos speak for themselves.

The color photos are of one of my ready-to-wear suits, while the black and white photos are of my bespoke blazer, which I think is almost perfect.

 

 

The bespoke jacket should always sit as still as possible despite our body movements.

The left photo shows a non-bespoke blazer going up as I lift my arm. This is one of those things that no jacket should feature.
In fact, the photo on the right speaks for itself: my arm rises and the jacket remains in place, steady, without disruption; this is because it has a very tight sleeve lap that allows much more movement and freedom than the photo on the left.

 

 

The jacket should never detach from the neck. And should not come off in any situation you are, from when you are standing and when, above all, you are sitting, especially if the jacket you are wearing was made by a tailor.

 

 

The hips are also very important. A correct flattening and a good sartorial workmanship, with a fabric that really follows our body, allow not to have unpleasant anti-aesthetic side creases, like those you see in the picture on the left.

So, these are the three main defects that a jacket should never have, there would be others, but those, however, we send them to the next episode.

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AM I STORING MY TIES PROPERLY?

 

We all have more than one tie in our wardrobe. Good. But how do we keep them? Rolled up? Folded in four, or in two? What’s the right recipe.

Let me tell you about my little experience. I arrive home; I slip the tie off by loosening the knot and removing it from my head with the knot still in place. Once removed from the neck I loosen the necktie.

Then I hang the tie on the hanger of my jacket or suit. I leave it there a whole night to get it back in shape and the next day I put it back in the drawer.

But how do I store it?

Simple. I take the transparent bag and put it back inside, so the tie will be folded only in two, with a length of 75 cm on each side. Then I take it and put it in the drawer with the others well stretched out.

Why do I still use the transparent plastic bag?

Because I find that way the ties don’t friction on each other and the tips don’t bend. And they’re easy to slide on when you don’t know what tie to put on or maybe you’re looking for the one at the bottom of the drawer that you haven’t used in a long time. And in this case, when you slip the last one out of the bottom, if you don’t have the plastic baggies you risk making a mess in the drawer. So instead you take the one you need while maintaining a perfect order in the drawer, without various tipping. Of course, maybe at the sight, all that plastic is not so great but in the long run you will always have ties like new.

Because there’s no uglier thing than letting your ties wrinkle out of attention. And folded only in two silk and interlining will always remain perfect; never showing bubbles or creases at the time of reuse.

Folding them in four or rolling them up I have seen that over time you may find aesthetic imperfections during reuse; when you roll them up you risk that the tie then presents small waves or bubbles on the front; same thing when they are folded in four on each other. Also in that case there could be some creases then slightly visible when you reuse them.

Another good method would be to leave them hanging.

In conclusion, the important thing is that the ties do not stay too long in the wardrobe.

Wear them always and forever!
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History of the blazer

 

How old is the blazer?

Surely almost 200, because it was 1825 when the students of St. John’s College in Cambridge created the Lady Margaret Boat Club, which had its own “social uniform” represented by a red jacket.

But 1837 is also a historic date for the birth of the blazer, I would say the most famous. Yes, because in that year the frigate captain John Middleton Waugh received the prestigious visit of Queen Victoria on board his boat called HMS BLAZER. For the occasion the captain wanted to redo all the uniforms not to disfigure before the queen. Reading various theses we can say that those jackets were double-breasted with gold buttons and as a color was chosen navy blue for officers and striped white and blue for sailors.

So we can say that for both cases mentioned above the blazer has a common denominator, without which perhaps it would not even exist: water! The water needed for civilian club racing and the water that was used by military vessels to protect and expand their borders.

So there are two categories of blazers: the nautical one, navy blue with gold or silver buttons, and the sporty one in general, maybe striped or with badges on the breast pocket; but there is also a third, less sporty blazer; always blue, maybe night blue, but with black or dark blue buttons, to be matched with dark grey pants and brown or black shoes. In this case we are faced with a “formal” blazer, capable of being perfect even for business appointments.

And what tie do I wear when as a jacket I have chosen a blazer; here too it depends;

when the blazer is sporty, i.e. nautical club, then navy with gold buttons, all stripes or stripes with logos and emblems are allowed, including of course plain ties with association emblems;

On the other hand, when you wear a “formal” blazer with dark buttons and gray pants tending to anthracite and maybe white shirt, for me it is necessary to stay on a plain tie or with micro designs.

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Telephone at the table? No thanks!

 

True, the phone is an extension of the hand. Indeed, it has even become a critical component to the table; In fact, when he prepares trouble if they are along with forks, knives and glasses do not put a beautiful phone. But a gentleman be a slave to his phone also at the table? For us the answer is no.
It has happened to us in several restaurants, some high-end and some less so, and witness the sadness of loneliness; All, or almost all, were so careful to read their notifications or message that the people they were at the restaurant with were basically alone. The result? Or they also begin to look at their smartphone or they spend the evening in perfect solitude.
You go to the restaurant to share a pleasant moment with your partner, friends or loved ones. Dedicating full attention to your portable telephone device instead of its guests is rude to the limits of selfishness. Unfortunately, this exaggerated use of the phone at the table is sometimes a normal gesture. Indeed, it seems abnormal to carry the phone in your pocket when you are in public.
Passaggio Cravatte therefore advises that you turn off the phone when you enter the restaurant; only in special cases, and for strict necessity, should you not abide by this advice. Unless the lunch is a business meeting, the phone should be prohibited even for incoming calls and outgoing calls.
Only then can we rediscover the beauty of being at table with the person of the heart, or the one who wanted to meet you because he needs your attention.
Gianni
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DIVERSITY OF MODELS, WHICH ONE TO CHOOSE ?

I have always talked to you about the news, leaving out the difference between the two models of ties that my wife and I produce; today the time has come to explain to you better what the differences are between them.

Passaggio Cravatte produces two models of ties, the 3 folds and the ancient seven folds. These are the two historical models that were born in the early 1900s. All the other models that go up to 12 or 16 folds are modern models, which is why we do not make them. On this we are perfectly adherent and consistent with Italian traction.

But what is the difference between these two models?

The difference is all, or almost all, contained in the back of the tie.

 

The 3-folds tie – which I also call the classic tie because it is more common – has 3 folds in the back and has almost a metre of handmade hem. And having fewer pleats, it is slightly lighter at the neck.

 

 

The ancient seven folds tie is a bit like the Rolls Royce of ties: a real status symbol; in short, a true masterpiece of craftsmanship; certainly more difficult to make and to find in shops. In the back of the tie are enclosed the famous 7 folds, all always hand hemmed for a total of almost two meters of handmade hem.

Compared to the 3 folds it weighs a little more, although not by much.

On both models we always use an interlining made of the highest quality natural materials, such as wool and cotton. This allows the tie to last longer, stay in shape, and a necktie of a normal size.

In addition, wearing our tie in the morning and you don’t have to touch it again until the evening, when you it take off. And by wearing them you will realise one thing: your neck will no longer have the famous necktie stress. Yes, because the weight will never be too much. You will never have that bad feeling of being a prisoner of collar and tie.

In the end, when it comes to choice, it’s like going to a supercar dealership: do I prefer to choose a Bentley or a Rolls Royce? I’m happy with either. Because I know that I am giving you a product that is handmade and always by the same hands, that is, mine and my wife Marta’s, using the best materials for interlining and with vintage fabrics that are practically extinct and therefore unique.